Western australia

Bungle Bungles, Kimberlys

After “Northern Territory” we were really looking forward to Western Australia – our main destination of Australia. On the way we bought new tires, which is why we took the detour back via Katherine. In terms of price, this has made a big difference. We have learned something on it – we should have checked the tyres better when we bought Speedy. On the way we met people who we have already met five times so far. Australians are very open minded, everyone talks to you and asks you 20 questions. There are already some destinations where we are expected as visitors.

Finally crossing the border into Western Australia, we were really looking forward to seeing the Kimberlys. We were a bit disappointed about the time difference, so that the sun sets shortly after five in the evening and rises at six in the morning. Nevertheless we adjusted to a new rhythm.

With a short stop at Lake Argyle, which did not convince us, we headed for the Bungle Bungles. Another of Australia’s World Heritage Sites. We gladly accept the Australian distances of 200 km through the pampas and then 53 km off-road to the national park. The distances in Switzerland seem ridiculous to us after Australia. So it was a relatively hefty ride over hill and dale and a few river crossings. At the beginning it was a bit rainy and cloudy in Purnululu National Park. Fortunately, the weather improved the next day. So off we go to the Bungle Bungles, the main attraction of the park. These dome-like hills of sandstone are up to 300m high and truly spectacular. Especially with the washed-out river bed. The detour to the park was very worthwhile, even if it wasn’t exactly on the way.

Ord River, Parry Lagoons Nature Reserve

We were once again longing for a few days of doing nothing and relaxing– so we looked around for a campsite in the Traveller’s camping bible “Camps 5”. We also found one; a free campsite directly on the river, along a 4×4 route between Kununurra and Wyndham. The way there included an adventurous river crossing, the Ivanhoe Crossing, shortly after Kunurra. It is “only” 45 cm deep, but there is a strong current. After watching two other vehicles, we got the courage together as well. Everything worked wonderfully this time too.

When we reached our destination, we were thrilled. A place completely for us alone, directly at the river with a fireplace. The disadvantage of the place is that there are salt water and fresh water crocodiles in the river. During the day it’s not such a problem, at night it can get a bit scary when the camp is set up 2m next to the river. At night we shone the torch into the river, the result was that some glowing pairs of crocodile eyes stared at us. Going to the toilet out in the bush at night has felt better. But we still like our camp very much.

The next day started very well. Our Australian neighbour, who has set up camp 100m further back, brought us a barramundi. Barramundi is one of the most famous and delicious fish in Australia. So we gladly accepted the 1kg gift. Sandro is busy fishing, but somehow it hasn’t worked out that way yet. All beginnings are difficult. We are also happy to receive fish as a gift.

When we were then invited on a boat trip, it was of course brilliant. It was great to see the crocodiles free in the wild. Especially the saltwater crocodiles are quite impressive with their size.

The campsite was brilliant – watching the wildlife there a highlight for us. On the other side of the river there were about 50 kangaroos and wallabies drinking, eagles circling around our camp and countless other beautiful birds making their rounds. After a few days we continued to Wyndham – instead of the highway on the Karunjie Track, which offers an indescribably beautiful panorama.

The trail leads through the Cockburn Ranges; spectacular sandstone walls over 600m high. Partly you drive through Savannah Land and through a dry lake. The vastness of Australia is once again impressive.

However, some parts of the route are hard to drive, and in the sandy stretches the low range has to be switched on. It also took us four hours to cover the 50 km. Shortly before nightfall, we had to find a place to sleep – even though this is frowned upon here on private land. But 4×4 driving on in the dark is not an alternative either. Directly at the river we found a nice camping site again. So beautiful that we stayed for two more nights.

Gibb River Road, Kimberlys

We have been looking forward to this adventure for a long time. The 660km long corrugated iron track is a must for every 4×4 traveller in Australia. We imagined the road to be worse. However, as long as you drive carefully over the sometimes high ledges and stones and the river crossings, the Gibb River Road is not that challenging. It only gets more dangerous when it rains – the road can turn into a muddy track, which is quite slippery. You can also imagine what Speedy looked like afterwards. But even in dry conditions – it’s a dusty affair.

In addition to spectacular landscapes that you cross, it has countless gorges and waterfalls with swimming opportunities. For example, Emma Gorge was a great experience; a huge pool of water in the middle of high walls where we had a wonderful swim.

In the Questro George we especially liked the 7km long walk, which went over hill and dale and was more like a climbing tour. The advantage is that it had no people, as it was probably too much of a good thing for most. So we could enjoy our bath under the waterfall alone.

Manning George and Bell George were even nicer. It feels like you’ve arrived in paradise. For us, one of the most beautiful Georges so far. But Bell Gorge was also beautiful with a great waterfall! As early risers, we had this one to ourselves for a long time.

Driving the Gibb River Road is an adventure. Despite the dust and rattling on the corrugated iron road – if you can find a nice campsite somewhere by the river in the evening and watch the stars over a fire, Kimberly’s outback adventure is perfect.

Mitchell Falls, Kalumburu Road

About halfway along the Gibb River Road we asked ourselves, as many travellers probably do, whether we want to take the 500km detour to Mitchell Falls. Kalumburu Road is quite tough and many advise against it. Not necessarily difficult to drive, but with a steep mogul track with 30cm steps, not the kind of track that your 4×4 vehicle will like. The tourist information also advises against it. Even the oncoming travellers we asked did not necessarily encourage us. One of them lost the bull bar, the next one’s fridge blew up in his face. But everyone was of the opinion that the exertions were worth it. So we set out on our way.

We quickly realised how bad the road was. The shaking was pretty bad. Sometimes we couldn’t go faster than 20km/h, but sometimes it went better so that we could drive 80km/h. The ride was not fun. Three hours later we settled in at the first campsite, right on the King Edward River, about 80km before Mitchell Falls. The first river without crocodiles so far, so we could swim comfortably. The next day we tackled the remaining 80 km, unfortunately the worst ever. Finally, a 4km bushwalk, which took us on foot to Mitchell Falls. Arriving at the falls, we were thrilled. Staircase-like layout, with countless pools and a huge amount of water, which ends in a large pool at the bottom. You can even swim in the top pool.

Along the cliffs we looked for a nice spot where we had a good view and could enjoy the spectacular waterfall. We spent two beautiful days up there. The exertions were absolutely worth it. However, we were also happy to have arrived safely back without any complaints. We enjoyed the two weeks in the Kimberlys very much, for us it is pure Australia.

Broome

After the dusty adventure in the Kimberlys, we were looking forward to Broome and especially the ocean. We have been in Australia for six weeks now and can use our body board for the first time. The Cable Beach is very well known and accordingly well filled. Camel rides, surfers, vehicles right on the beach – wonderful atmosphere; that’s Cable Beach. We also enjoyed it.

But it was too expensive and too hectic for us to stay overnight, so we drove towards the Peninsula north of Broome, where there are many free campsites. The Manari Road is quite sandy, so it is advantageous to have a 4×4 vehicle. We have witnessed some that got stuck and had to be pulled out. We set up camp at Quondong Beach, on a dune directly on the beach. The aim was to stay for two or three days.

We weren’t alone – there were a few caravans of South Australians who had all gone to Broome for the winter. We got to know them very quickly. At the evening communal fire we had an aperitif together, barbecued and listened to the exciting stories of the retired Australians. A wonderful group of established people who pampered us as young foreign tourists from head to toe. They regularly supplied us with fish and various materials when they went shopping in Broome.

It was also great to see humpback whales circling directly in front of us. With the binoculars (which our neighbour Bill had brought us) we observed these gigantic mammals and were speechless. They are also known to like to put on a show. Watching this from the campsite was a dream. It got even better when Bill took us out on the water in his fishing boat. In the little “nutshell” we suddenly found ourselves in the middle of things instead of just being there. We were speechless and so nervous that we forgot to jump into the water (we had brought our own snorkel and mask). For a short time, the engine also stopped; we thought we would have to row back. But Bill was able to repair the damage. Others pay huge amounts of money to experience such whale watching – we were allowed to experience it alone with a local on a small fishing boat. It was a happy day.

In general, we had an indescribable time at Quondong Beach. In the end we stayed there for 10 days and had more and more fun with our neighbours. Coffee there in the morning, then an afternoon of games there, cutting wood with Bill, making a fire and enjoying the evening atmosphere and food – the days went by in a flash. And the fridge was more than filled with fish from our neighbours who were all out fishing during the day. Add to that a perfect atmosphere on the beach, beautiful sunsets; this is the Australian experience we were longing for!

As a finale, we all drove to Broome together to watch the natural spectacle “Staircase to the Moon”. This is a unique phenomenon that cannot be observed anywhere else. With absolute low tide in Broome Bay and a full moon at the same time, the moonlight reflects like a kind of staircase to the moon. Unbelievable.

Karijini Nationalpark

After a few days at the beach, we drove inland via Port Hedland to visit the next national park. Port Hedland is an industrial city that lives from iron production. These are taken from the mines in trains up to 7 km long, brought to the port and shipped overseas. Gigantic machines work here in the mines – very impressive to see once.

Restocked with supplies, we continued into Karijini NP. This is considered one of the most spectacular national parks in Western Australia. The park is not necessarily large, but there are many beautiful gorges to admire. In the end, we hiked and explored the region for four days. The gorges are not always easy to reach – it requires some climbing. Certainly not feasible for everyone, which is why we were often alone.

The Hancock and Knox Georges in particular were spectacular. The 100m high walls in the gorge have been sculpted by the waters of the rainy season over the centuries. In both, we stopped at difficulty level 6 – which means you have to abseil down.

The Kalamina and Hamersley George were also very beautiful – we were even able to take a short swim in the icy cold water of the Hamersley George pool.

Fortescue and Joffre Falls unfortunately both had relatively little water, as the Pilbara region seems to have skipped the last rainy season. On the last day we visited the Mt. Bruce at 1250m, the second highest mountain in Western Australia. Not very impressive for us as Swiss – but we sweated anyway. After all, 10 km and 600 metres in altitude – and with a fantastic panorama. We really liked Karijini NP with its special kind of gorges. On the way back to the coast we stopped at Millstream-Chichester NP. The highlight there, the python pool, unfortunately had hardly any water and you couldn’t swim either. Otherwise, we had a nice walk through the Millstream area and especially marvelled at the very beautiful landscape of the Chichester Ranges.

Cape Range NP, Ningaloo Reef

After the 1’000 km detour inland, we went back to the coast. On the Pilbara coast around Karratha and Dampier we did not find a comfortable place. Actually, it would have been good to stay a bit further north, because the climate south is getting cooler and cooler. On a continent like Australia, however, you can’t always catch the ideal time to travel. Soon it’s uphill again in the south, in the meantime we have to be content with 20-25C°. In Exmouth, at Cape Range NP, it was reasonably warm but very windy. The campsites were all fully booked, so we slept outside the park for the first night. The ranger advised us to be at the entrance early, as there are always more campers than free campsites. So at five in the morning we went to the ranger office, but we were still only number 6, by eight o’clock there were already 13. We were lucky and there were 9 free campsites. So we were able to settle in on the beautiful beach.

We had been looking forward to snorkelling atNingaloo Reef for a long time. Mostly we went to Turquioise Bay, where there is a drift snorkel spot; albeit with only a slight current. Overall, we expected a bit more from the reef; the corals are beautiful and intact, but we hear so many good things that we had hoped for something more. But maybe it’s because we’ve already seen a lot of reefs. It would have been nice to do a few dives. The horrendous prices of 100 US per dive quickly dispelled the joy, however. If at least big fish, manta rays, sharks or anything else were to be expected; that might have convinced us. But “it has a lot of fish” not necessarily. 400 US for a day’s diving is too much for us. So we concentrated on snorkelling and fishing.

Despite a cosy campsite in a beautiful landscape, the strong wind became too much for us after three days. So we went 150km further south to Coral Bay. Similar in terms of coral, it was nice to snorkel, but not a top highlight for us as divers. The water was also very cold – so it was an effort to jump in every time.

Blowholes

From Carnavon we drove north again to see the blowholes. Along the coast towards Gnarloo we were rewarded with beautiful scenery. High cliffs, where the sea was crashing against them with all its might, was the picture that presented itself to us.

There were also some humpack whales s to be found. However, we came for the blowholes; these are holes in the cliffs that spurt out columns of water 10-20m high, depending on the height of the waves and the amount of air that is sucked into the holes. Right by the Blowholes we found a cosy campsite at Quobba Point, where we stayed for two nights.

Kennedy Range NP

Once again we decided to drive an inland diversions of 400km from the coast to Kennedy Range National Park. We were also hoping to see the Wildflowers, which are supposed to be on this route. Seasonally optimal, but too little rain. We slept somewhere outside the park and set up our cosy little camp.

Early in the morning we went to the park to see the sunrise, the time of day when the Kennedy Ranges are most beautifully lit. We did the three different walking trails. But it was a pity that we had already seen everything after 4 hours. In the documents, the time required for hikes is often massively exaggerated. We could actually divide all the times by three. This is unfortunate, as we were actually expecting to be here for a few days. For this reason, we have to say that the diversions of 400 km was not really worth it.

Shark Bay, Francois Peron NP

The Shark Bay World Heritage Area is famous for the marine life that can be seen. Especially the dolphins in Monkey Mia, which are fed there, as well as sharks, rays and, depending on the season, dugongs. Arriving in Denham, we first drove up to Francois Peron NP. The national park is only accessible with a 4WD (high clearance), as the track is very, very sandy. The air pressure in the tyres must be lowered to about 20 psi to prevent sticking. It took us a good 1.5 hours to cover the 50 km. Having also mastered this stretch, we are now a bit braver to ride soft sandy beaches or dunes.

Many cosy campsites line the park, some directly on the beach or a few metres away from it. During a week’s stay we drove from campsite to campsite and tested them all. We spent a lot of time at Cape Peron in particular, the scenery is unique. White sandy beaches, red cliffs and turquoise waters.

Sandro once again tried his luck as a fisherman – and lo and behold, after two months it worked. He fished out three beautiful Travelleys. They tasted great. It’s twice as much fun when you can enjoy the fish you’ve caught yourself. The following day it was the same – obviously a good fishing spot.

One of the most beautiful things we have experienced so far, however, were the many animals and especially the countless dolphins. Completely alone, we sat on the beach day after day and watched the dolphins play and hunt. They chased the fish towards the beach, stranding half their body and devouring the fish. At the same time, we had breakfast on the beach itself and watched the dolphins for hours. In the end, we decided that we could skip the touristy Monkey Mia with a very clear conscience. If you have a 4×4 vehicle, this place is not to be missed.

Kalbarri Nationapark

The well-known Kalbarri National Park was the next destination. Inland as well as coastal gorges offer a good change of scenery. Nature’s Window, for example, is a motif that is already familiar from many catalogues. Actually nothing more than a frame of field where you can look down on the Murchison River; like through a window. The 8km Walk, the Loop, also started there. Very beautiful now in spring due to the many wildflowers.

The next day we followed the coast and visited the Costal Gorges. Especially Island Rock and Natural Bridge are spectacular. 70m high cliffs, with rocks below in the water forming a bridge. With beautiful walks, impressive cliffs and lovely beaches, Kalbarri NP has a lot to offer.

We continued along the coast to Cervantes, where we visited the small villages and especially the Wildflowers. Spring in this area is indescribable – thousands of flowers are in bloom. Whole fields full of purple, blue, yellow or red. In the Badingara National Park, countless special flowers can be discovered on a wildflower hike. Orchids of all kinds, which had to be photographed. After the desert and Savannah Land in the north, we have now arrived in the green part. Farmland, vineyards and forests characterise the landscape. Travelling in Australia offers an enormous amount of variety.

Pinnacles Desert

Another tourist destination on the way through Western Australia are the Pinnacles in Nambung National Park. Hundreds of limestone rocks, in the middle of the desert near Cervanes, offer a scenically spectacular picture. You can either visit them on foot or by car on the 4km drive.

Yanchep NP

Shortly before Perth we visited Yanchep National Park. Situated on a lake, surrounded by many hiking trails, the park offers an ideal opportunity to relax and explore. Besides countless kangaroos, we also experienced our first koala encounters. We didn’t expect to see these until we reached the east coast. We were blessed to see the normally very calm animals in an active phase; feeding and jumping around.

Perth

After three months we arrived in Perth, the first big city. At 23 AUD, we even managed to find an affordable campsite. Since Darwin, this is only our second stay in a caravan park. Whenever possible, we try to avoid this, as it is simply more comfortable alone in nature. But in the big cities this is rather difficult. Perth is a beautiful city, situated directly on the Swan River with an impressive skyline. Especially from the beautiful Kings Park, the oasis in the middle of the city, you enjoy a great view.

After three beautiful days around Perth and Fremantle and a few sights later, however, we were drawn further afield. We definitely like desert and outback better than big cities.

Margaret River Wine Region-Pemberton

Slowly we are approaching the south-west of Australia. Known for the wine regions and the “Southern Forests”. After deserts and Savannah in the north, we are now in the middle of rivers, forests and above all a lot of farmland. A stark contrast to the north. The first excursion was by ferry to Penguin Island to see the sea lions – unfortunately we were still a bit early and the island was therefore still closed. So we went further south to Lane Pool Conservation Park, where we found a cosy campsite in the middle of the woods. A little north of Margaret River we have now arrived in the wine region with countless wine merchants and vineyards. Unfortunately, the fields were not in full bloom, spring has only just begun. But by the time we reached the southeast and the big wine regions, this should have changed. But the wine still tasted very good. We tasted our way from wine merchant to wine merchant. The area also has a beautiful coastline, which is easy to explore with a 4WD. We drove some trails which turned out to be more challenging than expected. But Speedy has mastered that too.

The trails lead through the forests over dunes to the coast – a great experience and beautiful panorama. The nice thing is that we are completely alone on the beaches and sometimes feel like we are at the end of the world.

The area also has many limestone caves, of which we visited Calgardup Cave. One of the few that is not lit and must be walked with a lamp and helmet. At over 600m long, it is pitch black without a lamp.

Over some more off-road trails we continued along the coast towards Pemberton, where the “Southern Forests” begin. In Warren National Park we set off on an 11km long and very beautiful hiking trail. Along the Warren River, it leads through the hills high through the karri trees until we have a great view over the karri forest. Karris are very beautiful trees that grow to about 90m high – completely different trees than in Europe. Countless beautiful campsites in the forests, directly by the river with nice fireplaces can be found here. We would also hate to do without a warming camp fire in these temperatures.

Manjimup

We decided to call and visit Bill and Jill, whom we had met in Broome. The idea was to say a quick hello. However, they could not dissuade us from staying a few days. So we spent three days on their gigantic farm. As in Broome, they looked superbly on us. In the evening Jill cooked something delicious, during the day they drove us tirelessly through the area, introduced us to people, showed us secret places and prepared picnics. Bill also proudly showed us his countless avocado, orange, apple, olive and tomato plantations. It’s incredible how hospitable Australians are. It was not always right for us to be served like this – but you were happy to do it. So we just enjoyed it. After months of camping, it’s nice to enjoy a hot shower and be pampered like that.

Bill is a keen golfer, so of course that was part of the programme. This sport is not that easy. It took us quite a while to play 9 holes – but the main thing was that it was fun.

Walpole, Valley of the Giants

Bill and Jill not only have a gigantic farm, but also a holiday home by the sea. They invited us there, which we of course gladly accepted. As soon as we arrived, Bill unpacked his fishing boat – off we went fishing. The first time we were allowed to fish from a boat – a dream for Sandro, of course. As soon as we got going, we had a real good one on our hands. That’s enough for a few days.

After a day, Bill and Jill left us, gave us the key to the cottage and said that when we left, we should leave it at the supermarket. There’s beer in the fridge and the fish will last for a while. All right, we won’t say no to that. Having a house to ourselves again for a few days is great. We explored the area around Walpole. The famous Tingle Trees are certainly a highlight. Impressive big trees, many of them completely burnt out by a big bushfire, so you can hide in the tree and have half a house. The record is said to be 140 schoolchildren holed up in a larger specimen. Here in the Valley of the Giants you will also find the famous Top Tree Walk. Between the peaks, you walk through the tree tops on a platform at around 40m above ground. A beautiful experience which should not to be missed being in the region.

Then we ventured to Mandalay Beach, which is only accessible by 4WD. A beautiful bay (Bottleneck Bay) rewarded us, where we were able to spend a leisurely day. And best of all; once again, no one but us. It is a huge advantage to be on the road in Western Australia with a 4×4. As a result, we are regularly rewarded with the most beautiful places.

Denmark

On the way to Albany we made a short stop at Greens Pool and Elephant Rocks near Denmark. A beautiful bay with turquoise water and huge rocks. Shortly before Albany we stopped at West Cape Howe National Park. We were rewarded with a lovely spot right on the beach to spend the night. There was some action involved for Speedy, but it was worth the effort. Once again, however, we were glad not to be stuck.

Stirling Range NP

Around Albany, a cosy little town, we enjoyed the great beautiful beaches in the area and ventured with Speedy on some beach runs. We also visited Tornadirrup National Park, unfortunately on a long weekend, so it was overcrowded with people. Our stay was therefore rather short, as the park did not convince us in any other way. So we drove on towards the Stirling Ranges, about 100km north of Albany, and one of the most famous parks in the southwest. Once again, some exercise couldn’t hurt us, so we were looking forward to some nice hikes. We started with the most famous and highest peak of the range; the Bluff Knoll (1’095m). Once at the top, a great panorama over the Stirling Ranges awaited us. On the way back, we were a bit startled by how many people were coming towards us. As mentioned, it is the most famous peak and also not very difficult to climb. Luckily we left early.

In the afternoon we tackled the second highest, Toolbrunup Peak(1’052m). As this one is a bit more demanding, there were only two cars. In fact, this summit is quite something; more or less 1,000 metres of vertical climbing awaited us. This doesn’t have much to do with hiking, especially from climbing down we will surely get a nice sore muscle. A breathtaking panorama compensated for all the exertions. Definitely more impressive than the Bluff Knoll.

With sore muscles we started the following day to Mount Hassel (827m). Also a very nice excursion. Finally, Speedy was allowed to enjoy the panorama drive across the Ranges. A welcome change from hiking.

Esperance

Esperance is known for having the most beautiful beaches in Western Australia. On the Great Ocean Drive, we quickly discovered that this was not an exaggeration. For us, the most beautiful beaches we have ever seen. Snow-white sand, which feels like sugar, the water turquoise blue. A dream. For the first time we regretted being here a bit early in the season, as it is still a bit too fresh for swimming.

In a travel guide we read about Sammy, the sea lion, who likes to be fed at the pier. As we drove to the pier, we actually met Sammy. Directly under the fish cleaning station of the fishermen, he waited greedily for food. He was not alone – against numerous birds and pelicans he had to fight hard for the food. We were thus able to check off the first sea lion – nevertheless, we naturally hoped for a few more on the south coast.

Cape Arid NP

There are two national parks in the Esperance area – Cape le Grand and Cape Arid, both known for their beautiful beaches. We started in Cape Arid NP, 150km from Esperence. Most of the beaches here are only accessible by 4WD. Which, as always, brings the advantage of having few people. The park inspired us. The beach was even nicer than in Esperance itself. The campsite with views over Yokinup Bay was brilliant. The night disadvantage was that no camp fire was allowed.

Some of the campsites on the other side of the park were only accessible via tough 4WD trails. It didn’t take much for us to get stuck in a huge mud puddle. It would have been messy; no idea how we would have got out of there without help. It was definitely most beautiful in Yokinup Bay, which is why we went back there. The plan was to climb Mount Arid the next day. This can only be reached via the beach. But the sand was so soft at this time of year that we didn’t want to risk getting stuck and washed away with the coming tide. So with heavy hearts we turned around.

To make up for it, we set off on the 10km coastal trail and were lucky; suddenly we spotted whales playing off the coast. The whole bay was full of whales – the Southern Right Whales sometimes come very close to the bay to rest and feed their young. So we could watch them directly from the beach with a distance of about 15m, and that from morning till evening. One of those experiences we will never forget.

Cape Le Grand National Park

On the way back to Esperance we visited Cape Le Grand National Park. The most famous bay is Lucky Bay, which is considered by Australians to be the whitest beach ever.

It is indeed a beautiful bay; but we were glad, we camped completely alone in Cape Arid before, as the campsite in Lucky Bay is nothing special. Besides Lucky Bay, there are several other beautiful bays, one of which we liked very much was Thistle Cove. After climbing up Frenchman Peak, we enjoyed a wonderful view over the coast. After a beautiful day in this park we drove the 22km way back to Esperance all along the beach. That’s Australia – just take the beach path instead of the highway.

So we have said goodbye to the coast for the next few weeks; we are heading towards the desert again. We liked the southwest extremely well. Beautiful forests, mountains, farms and those amazing beaches – let’s see what the rest of Australia has to offer.

Goldfields

On the way back to the centre we drove towards Kalgoorlie Boulder, the centre of the Goldfields. The destination was the Super Pitt viewpoint, which was supposed to offer a view over a gigantic open gold mine. Unfortunately, it was precisely now that the mine is relocating. The platform is closed for 4 days because it is changing location. Very sad, but we didn’t feel like waiting four days. So we continued along the 950km Discovery Trail across the Goldfields. Passing many historical places, the history was beautifully explained everywhere. It started in 1890, when gold was discovered for the first time in Australia. The trail is certainly great for history fans – but not necessarily for us. We stopped and looked at one or two things along the way, such as Lake Ballard. A dry lake where an artist has placed 51 sculptures.

The atmosphere, especially at sunset and sunrise, is very special. We camped directly at the lake and enjoyed the special atmosphere.

Great Central Road

After three and a half months, it is time for us to say goodbye to Western Australia. We set off towards Laverton, from where we planned to cross the desert to continue the journey in South Australia. Certainly a small diversions instead of crossing the Nullabor. However, we heard that it is relatively boring; apart from water, there is nothing to see. Besides, we wanted to drive one of the well-known routes across the country at least once during our trip to Australia. So we tackled the Great Central Road from Laverton, WA to Winton in Queensland. But our journey will end in Erldunda to continue to South Australia; a dusty outback journey of 1400km.

We also decided on this route because the other one – the Anne Beadell Highway – was a bit too dangerous for us. A very hard, deserted trail, which should only be ridden in convoy. The Great Central Road was a real outback adventure! Driving for hours through the beautiful and deserted desert landscape, which is currently quite green, was a beautiful experience. In the evening, lighting a campfire somewhere with a beautiful evening atmosphere and watching the incredible starry sky is simply brilliant. When wild camels cross your path, you know you are somewhere in the middle of the desert.

We also discovered the most beautiful of all wildflowers that exist in the outback; the Stuart Desert Pea. We often hoped to find this flower. She is even more beautiful in real life than in all the magazines.

The real highlight, however, was when we suddenly spotted the most special and beautiful Lizzard on the roadside – the Thorny Devil! Not many people are lucky enough to spot this one in the wild. The Thorny Devil is a very funny animal; its walking style could also be called dancing rather than running. It also takes him a little while to cross the road.

Shortly after crossing the border into the Northern Territory, the Olgas came into view, the brothers of Ayers Rock. There we knew that we would soon have made it and would be able to sozalize again. The road was partly a bumpy corrugated iron track that can look nasty, especially after rain. We are now heading towards South Australia and hope to have as much fun there as we did in the west.