Travel report Spain

Cap de Creus

Excitedly, we cross the border into Spain. Is it really so difficult to travel in Spain with Corona? Are we effectively not allowed to enter or leave the Autonomous Communities? However, the border crossing goes smoothly. Although there is a large contingent of border guards, they let us pass without stopping. In the nature park Cap de Creus we spend our first night in Spain. A wonderful place with a fantastic view.

The next morning we wake up in dense fog; the disadvantage of campsites on pass heights. Since it does not dissipate, we look for a place on the coast where we stay for two nights. We are still drawn to the south. Finally stand a few days and set up camp – that would be our wish. Preferably on the beach. This is easier in the south than on the Costa Brava and Costa Daurada, which are overbuilt with high-rise buildings. In addition, we get insider tips from a nice traveler (thanks Frank!). We are preparing for a few days “on the road”to master the 800km.

Rio Ebro

We stick to our method of not driving on toll roads if possible. Even though it’s another detour, we enjoy the drive through the hinterland. Spring is approaching; suddenly white and pink blossom fields of almond, peach and cherry trees are stretching out. When the Rio Ebro appears in front of us, we have made half of our daily goal of 600km. A gigantic river – with 910 km the second longest in Spain. It’s hard for us to just keep driving here. The panorama is too spectacular and the pitches too inviting. We can no longer resist and turn around. In this beautiful place we stay two days.

A little south of Benidorm we are greeted by the police for the first time in the morning. Despite camping ban sign, however, you are only bothered by the fact that we have taken the beach place in the first row. Behind the beach barrier we are allowed to stay. As we are informed by a local about the risk of theft, we move on anyway.

After a few more hours we reach our destination, where free standing on the beach is tolerated. We enjoy the unobstructed view of the sea, jogging, mountain biking, fishing, playing guitar and much more. Only the wind is, as always on beaches, a small drawback. Since camping wild is apparently no longer tolerated in the spring, we use the opportunity and explore various beaches and bays. Thereby, we find one or the other nice place to spend the night. It is like a vacation during our trip. We also use the time to do maintenance on the vehicle, update the website, push the YouTube project or improve our Spanish skills.

Plastic Sea South Spain

During our tours through the backcountry – whether by mountain bike or car – frightening images present themselves. Thousands of greenhouses dot the landscape. The region around Murcia is probably a foretaste of Almería, where things are set to get much worse. Millions of tons of vegetables and fruits are planted and exported in Spain. Due to the very sunny, but also dry climate, this is done almost exclusively in greenhouses.

This also means that the greenhouses have to be irrigated artificially. Groundwater supplies are almost completely exhausted. We see only dried up creek beds and not a drop of water. Occasionally, a plastic water pipe crosses our path, where the last reserves are tapped. Nothing is left here for animals and plants. What is really shocking is the garbage everywhere. Several meters deep into the ground plastic waste is visible, because the fields are probably simply filled up again and the waste seeps away. There is an enormous amount of waste and dirt around the greenhouses. In general, this area of Spain is extremely dirty. Since we also find that a large part of the cultivated vegetables and fruits are not harvested but rotting on the ground, our heart hurts twice. We feel a bit like in a third world country.

Free standing in Murcia

For three weeks we enjoy the most wonderful free-standing pitches in the Murcia region. We feel privileged to be able to stand in such places.

These bays are obviously no secret; we meet many like-minded people. At the weekend, also the Spanish set up camp. In the low season, free standing is tolerated in this area. The fact that we are allowed to camp so easily in such beautiful places is a surprise for us. During our stay, we explored thewhole stretch of coast. Within about 3km we stood at five different places. Thanks to the already almost kitschy sunrises, this bay has become our favourite.

The area is also a great mountain biking destination. The trails here often lead through the“ramblas” – dried-up riverbeds. Sandy slopes and technical uphills always put a smile on our faces. We have even found something similar to trails for the downhills. So far we had searched in vain for it in Spain. We enjoy being in the saddle. For us, this makes it even easier to have an unforgettable time here.

Desert Tabernas

After three weeks of beach feeling we are ready for some change. The Tabernas Desert, the only desert in Europe, is not far away. The mountain ranges “Los Filabres” and the “Sierra Alhamilla” are partly responsible for the dry climate. The 280km2 drought area is a former seabed. As sea level dropped, sand, clay, and mud deposited in a sedimentary basin. Then the sun, wind and rain created this fascinating lunar landscape.

Besides, it is a well-known movie set. Several blockbusters were filmed here in the 60s and 70s. The most famous is certainly “Once Upon a Time in the West”. The two theme parks “Ford Bravo” and “Oasis Mini Hollywood” invite you to visit faithful replicas of saloons, hotels and prisons. Fort Bravo is closed due to Corona, Oasis Mini is open only on weekends. With over €20 entrance fee, we would have refrained from visiting anyway. If you believe the online reviews, the price-performance ratio is poor. Even without a saloon, we feel a little like Clint Eastwood or Winnetou in the hilly desert landscape.

Finally, Whaly is allowed to dive into his element…. We enjoy having some off-road fun. The dirt road takes us through creek beds from Las Acuiballas to Santa Fé, passing crumbling villages and even a small oasis.

For us it is a good exercise and we get to know Whaly better and better. Exploring the limits of the vehicle and also our own is an important learning process. Even though, we have to pull the emergency brake on a second off-road trail. The narrow road leads through sloping terrain over a pass, where 1,400 meters of altitude have to be overcome. The entry is crisp, which is why Sandro prefers a turning maneuver at a suitable bulge. However, this turning point must be reached first – with about 300m in reverse down the steep road. An adrenaline rush that we don’t want to experience again so quickly. Just a little further down we find our perfect overnight spot. A dream. It feels surreal to spend the night in this impressive area.

Because it is so beautiful, we stay two more nights. The route we wanted to take with Whaly we explore on foot. This recognition eventually turned into a beautiful 18km hike. In the end, we realize that the path would have been feasible. The risk and diesel consumption, however, not in proportion. Exploring the area by hiking is equally beautiful. In addition, we have with our pitch even the better panorama than at the top of the pass. We are grateful for unforgettable days in this bizarre landscape. The Tabernas Desert is definitely worth a visit – if only for the off-road fun.

Mojácar

After about two and a half months we decide to rent an apartment for a few days. This is for several reasons. After intensive weeks of preparation at home, we quickly broke down the tents, which is why some pending issues remained open. Office, completion of the vehicle, website and some more we postponed to settle on the way. However, in the fever of travel and free standing, we realize that this does not work. In addition, as of the end of March, the low season is over. Free standing is now only tolerated to a limited extent. In combination with the much-traveled Easter weekend, not a good perspective. In Mojácar we find our temporary place to stay via Airbnb. With an unbeatable view we enjoy wonderful days and do our old work.

Mojácar is the ideal place for a little time out. Wonderful beaches as well as cozy bars invite to stay. We enjoy having a beer or cappuccino on the beach promenade and watching the hustle and bustle in a relaxed way. The restaurants are also open. After months we can even have dinner out again. An unfamiliar but great feeling.

Andalusia is famous for its white villages. According to some guidebooks Mojacar belongs to the top 10 “Most beautiful white villages of Spain”. The whitewashed houses and the narrow, winding streets definitely have its charm.

They have their origin from the era of the Islamic Moors. They ruled the Iberian Peninsula for almost 800 years, from 710 to 1492. Mojácar was the last village in the 15th century to have a Muslim mayor. The sight of the “pueblo blancos” is breathtaking.

While washing the car we meet Radek. A Swiss, who actually should care for the well-being of the tourists in his diving school in the Philippines. Since we also worked in the Philippines as diving instructors and are water lovers, we get into the conversation for kite surfing. It has been a dream for us for a long time to try kiting. Radek recommends us an acquaintance – Willi – who is a kite instructor. Already a few days later we start at the beach of Mojácar with part one of three; kite control and bodydrag. We are amazed at how much power the wind brings to the sail. We still have to get used to the element of wind. After initial difficulties, things are going better and better. In any case, it’s incredible fun. We are now eagerly awaiting parts two and three; when, in addition to the wind, the element of water will be added.

Besides kiting, strolling on the beach and working off our pending tasks, we are often out and about on our mountain bikes. Longer tours take us through the hills of the Sierra Cabrera. After long, extremely steep climbs we are rewarded with a magnificent panorama, but unfortunately no trails. Unlike our “home circuit” through the alleys, ramblas (dried river beds) and coastal trails. The 33km long and 600Hm round leads past many magical places like this.

We will keep the time in Mojácar in lasting memory. Anyone traveling in this area should not miss a detour to this beautiful coastal town.

Cabo de Gata Naturpark

After a relaxing time in an apartment, we enjoy being “on the road” again. We spend the first few days just south of Mojácar. A coastal road, which we discovered by mountain bike, is our destination today with Whaly. A beautiful bay awaits us at its end. The road is narrow, we know that. Nevertheless; as we maneuver our 9 ton colossus along the path with inches to spare, a few drops of sweat develop. We are glad that there is no oncoming vehicle and that the slope withstands our weight. It was definitely a little adrenaline rush.

A few kilometers to the south, just after Carboneras, the Cabo de Gata Natural Park begins. A park which is underestimated. A dreamlike coastal landscape with a mixture of volcanic rocks, paradisiacal beaches and bays, turquoise waters and impressive limestone cliffs cast a spell over us.

Beaches and bays like “Cala de Enmedio”, “Cala de San Pedro” and “Playazo de Rodalquilar” are a dream. Partly difficult to reach, which gives the advantage of few people. Zumindest jetzt in der Nebensaison und während Corona-Zeiten. Again and again we marvel at the crystal clear water, which we did not necessarily expect in Spain. There are tingles under the fingernails to maybe do a dive after all. In La Isleta del Moro, a beautiful fishing village, you will find two dive stores. So far, however, we have not been able to motivate ourselves to unpack the diving equipment. Instead, we just enjoy the atmosphere and stroll through the alleys of the small coastal town.

Due to the climatic conditions with about 2,900 hours of sunshine per year, the vegetation is sparse. We look for shadows in vain. Not only the coast, but also the mountain range Sierra del Cabo de Gata behind it, we get our money’s worth. The extinct volcano Pico de los Frailes offers with 493m the highest elevation of the park. In the 19th century gold was also mined, some remains are still visible around Rodalquilar. Since the park is not too big, we can explore practically the entire area with two (long) mountain bike tours. Finally we find technically challenging trails in Spain as well. If you are in the region, be sure to follow the tour “Cabo de Gata Natural Park South” – GPS data under the heading “On the road”. An absolute dream.

In relation to the size, we spend a lot of time in Cabo de Gata Natural Park. The whole package between bays, mountain hills, fishing villages and mountain bike area convinces us. For us, we now continue towards Roquetas de Mar, where we finish our kite course. Directly on the beach, in the middle of the beautiful dune landscape, we park “Whaly” and look forward to spending the night here. The joy does not last too long. Kitesurfing means it needs wind. That is available; more than enough. Wind means in a dune landscape; sandstorm. Leaving the vehicle is not a good idea; after a few minutes we return sandblasted and spend the rest of the afternoon inside.

For the kite course we venture out on the vehicle. The wind is almost a bit too strong for us as beginners. For hours we march up the beach – the so-called “Walk of Shame”, while Willi kites us up again and again for the next attempt. It takes some coordination to keep the kite in the right position in the wind and strap on the board at the same time. Once this step has been taken, the challenge comes with the water start. This in wave conditions, where part of the concentration must also be devoted to the correct timing of the wave. Not so easy. Sandro manages to get up, and drive about 30m. At least I’m on the board and just barely get into the feeling of surfing. In any case, it is incredible fun and we will certainly continue to follow the sport of kiteboarding.

We are a bit surprised to find such a dune landscape at all in Roquetas de Mar (Almeria). Almeria is the plastic sea of Europe.Greenhouse after greenhouse line an area of 36,000 hectares. The main streets of the city run through the middle of the tent complexes; an unreal feeling. In the vegetable and fruit garden of Europe, millions of tons of tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, avocados and strawberries are planted and exported. We already describe the challenges of the plastic sea in the travel report from Murcia. The proportions in the province of Almeria are another story. We are glad we were prepared for it. Although scenically a region that can be easily bypassed, you still have to experience it with your own eyes. It’s hard to imagine without seeing it for yourself.

Cave dwellings Guadix

After six weeks on the coast, it’s time for a change of scenery. We are drawn to the mountains in the direction of Sierra Nevada National Park. The first stopover is the No. 1 cave town in Europe: Guadix. 4,500 people live here in around 2,000 cave dwellings. In all of Andalusia there are about 20,000 people who rely on the underground lifestyle. With a constant room temperature of 20°C on hot summer days as well as on cold winter days, heating and air conditioning are no longer necessary. The caves were originally dug by the Moors – fleeing from the Catholic kings. They found refuge in the well-camouflaged shelters; in fact, the holes in the loess are hardly visible from a distance. With the surrounding desert landscape, the view from above offers a whimsical image.

Clear differences are noticeable between the poor and more upscale neighborhoods. Internet, water and electricity are standard today. In the poorer streets, however, there is a lot of garbage, there is chaos and the locals are not pleased about curious tourists. The tour of the cave district is therefore an ambivalent experience. On the one hand interesting and impressive, on the other hand a bit queasy. But a visit is worthwhile.

Alhambra

At the foot of the Sierra Nevada lies the city of Granada with about 240’000 inhabitants. The Sierra Nevada is the highest mountain range in mainland Spain. With 3’482m the “Mulhacén” is the highlight of this breathtaking mountain range. The sight of snow is a special feeling and awakens feelings of home. The highlight of Granada is the Alhambra.

The most famous sight in Andalusia usually attracts 2.5 million visitors per year. A ticket must therefore be booked weeks in advance. Thanks to Corona, the rush is fortunately limited today, because we do not have a ticket. Once again we enjoy having such atop sightpractically to ourselves. The Alhambra is considered the pinnacle of Islamic architecture and dates back to the 9th century. However, a large part of the complex was built in the 14th century.

The Nasrid kings resided here for 250 years before they had to hand over the Alhambra to the Catholic Monarchs in the course of the Christian reconquest. The complex consists of three parts: the Alcazaba, the Nasrid palaces and the gardens in front, the Generalife. The gardens are considered the most beautiful testimony of Moorish architecture in Europe. With the beautiful planting and water features, a walk through the grounds feels like a fairy tale from 1001 nights.

A time slot is assigned for entry to the Nazarite palaces upon entry. The palaces with the many details of Islamic architecture are impressive. Unbelievable how much time and love went into this building.

We spend just under four hours at the facility. It’s worth taking time to let the structure take effect on you. The entrance fee is justified at € 14.00. The parking fees, on the other hand, are excessive. At over €15.00, “Whaly’s” viewpoint costs more than our entrance fee. Therefore, certainly worth considering to combine the visit with a walk and run up. We enjoy the most beautiful view of the plant from the viewpoint “Mirador San Nicolas”. Especially at sunset, when the castle turns reddish. We are not the only ones, the spectacular panorama with the snow-capped mountains in the background attracts many onlookers.

Santa Fe

A few kilometers outside Granada – in Santa Fe – there are supposed to be hot springs. We set off in search of it and wonder if the hot tub with a view of the mountains is really waiting here in the middle of nowhere. With “Whaly” we explore the slopes around the olive groves and finally find a great place to spend the night near the springs. We can’t get any closer because the trees are too low. The track also turns more and more into a motocross track; no longer meant for us. However, we enjoy the ambience, the hammock and the view of the mountains.

On foot we make our way to the spring. In fact, we find what we are looking for. Unfortunately, however, it is fenced, so that we are denied the healthy sulfur bath. Too bad. Unfortunately, the next morning we are sent away from our cozy camp by the police. No camping allowed. Once again, we have no choice but to move on.

Güéjar Sierra

After being chased away by the police again, we long for a “home base”. Hanging up the hammock without hassle, leaving the table and no wake-up calls in the morning; there’s only one solution: camping. Not that we generally have a problem with checking into campsites. Spain unfortunately simply offers few beautiful campsites. One of the exceptions we find in Güéjar Sierra, on the northern side of the Sierra Nevada National Park. A beautiful place for €20.00 per night, in the middle of the green, super view of the reservoir and large plots.

The region is a true outdoor paradise. For us, mountain biking is the order of the day. Finally we find challenging trails in Spain, which remind us of our home country. The ascents are rigorous. Although all asphalted, but very steep. The downhills partly flowing, partly technical. In any case, it puts a big smile on our faces and we can hardly get enough. On the Internet you can download some tours with any level of difficulty. Our favorites are the routes 3, 6 and 8. In the section “On the way” we provide the GPS tracks with a small description. Two-three planned nights eventually turn into ten; we enjoy the atmosphere in the mountains and the biking enormously.

Until Sandro unfortunately has an accident and bruises his rib cage. A risk that must be accepted in mountain biking. Fortunately, nothing worse happened. However, now it’s time for a break and a rest. On our penultimate day we meet two Dutchs who are on their way to Japan with their Toyota Landcruiser. We spend a cozy evening together and enjoy the exchange with like-minded people. It’s an area where we could stay for a long time. But at some point, everything comes to an end.

Roquetas de Mar

The beauty of this region is that mountains and coast are so close together. The versatility in Andalusia surprises us again and again. We still have a deal open with our kite instructor Willi. We therefore take advantage of the rising wind and drive the 70km back to the coast. Since we want to do this more intensively with kite surfing, we get kite material via Willi, so that we can practice independently in the future. After another afternoon of kiting in Roquetas, Sandro’s pain is unfortunately too great to continue. The recovery period after the bike crash was definitely too short. Kiting with a bruised chest is not necessarily the right thing to do either. Now rest is definitely called for, so we head back to the mountains.

Las Alpujarras

Again the gate to the Sierra Nevada is waiting for us; this time from the south side. From Lanjarón to Laroles, a winding, narrow road leads through the mountain villages. The Alpujarras are famous for the highest mountain villages in Spain.

The most famous and highest is Trévelez at 1’476m above sea level. We decide to visit Pampaneira and leave out the trip to Trévelez. Already this curvy ride is enough for us. With oncoming traffic, such roads are no fun. However, the trip to Pampaneira is definitely worth the trip.

We fall for the charm of the white mountain villages and enjoy exploring the narrow streets. The craftsmanship of the Alpujarras is omnipresent: hand-woven carpets and woven baskets are offered everywhere. Culinary delights are just as typical of the region; the best “Jamón” is said to be found here. So in a local store we stock up on the typical Serrano ham as well as homemade chocolate.

We spend the night in the village parking lot, but are woken up again by the police at seven in the morning. So we try again with a campsite. In Laroles we visit the “Camping Alpujarra”, a great place for €18.00. The owner Tino is helpful, gives many tips and is available with advice and support. We get a visit from the two Dutch we met in Güéjar Sierra. The campsite also offers a barbecue. Time for us to light a fire and grill for the first time. Sandro even unpacks the guitar and treats us to the skills he has (re)acquired so far.

Gorafe Desert

The next stop is the Gorafe Desert – the Grand Canyon of Andalusia. The landscape is spectacular. Once again we can hardly believe that we are only a few kilometers away from the snow mountains of the Sierra Nevada. The erosion forms, which shine in different colors depending on the time of day, are the characteristic of this desert landscape. The so-called “badlands” give the area a distinctive character.

On the app Park 4Night we find a place to stay overnight. It is an off-road track. The description says “easy access”. We are glad about that, because it is already seven o’clock in the evening. A rougher off-road track no longer needs to be. But things turn out differently. We navigate via Google Maps and quickly realize; this is not what “easy access” looks like. The VW T5 from the app is guaranteed not to be booted here. The route is partly hairy, that one or the other time our heart beats faster. Nevertheless, it is fun for us.

When we get to the top of the cross street, we realize where the “easy access” was. In fact, the square is only 300m around the corner. Once again we make the mistake of relying on Google Maps routing without studying the map. It was well worth it, the site is a paradise and certainly one of our top sites.

La Manga del Mar

In La Manga del Mar we find a shallow water area, which offers the ideal conditions to develop our kite skills. In the big lagoon we can without waves
practice for hours – as long as the wind cooperates. Five days we stand on the beach with “Whaly”, enjoy the evenings with our Dutch and French neighbors and wait for wind. Two days we are lucky. Our neighbor Timo, who is a kitesurfer as well, knows the right place. Together we set off; indeed the perfect place to practice. A few hours later, the water start works to some extent, the first meters on the board are covered. We are already quite disappointed that now several days again wind silence prevails. The wait goes on; fortunately we have a super pitch directly at the beach. There’s something appealing about sleeping on a beach in a city. A nice contrast to all the pitches in solitude. The fact that the police are not interested, surprises us a little.

New travel plans

During our stay in the mountains, a new itinerary was born. Although we are completely thrilled by the diversity of the country, it is not what we long for. The culture of Spain is too close. What fascinates us about traveling are not only new landscapes – which we found in Spain – but mainly the culture. The Corona situation is gradually loosening up, which is why we feel ready to take on new adventures – and perhaps certain risks. It’s time for the next step. That means we’re traveling swiftly back to Switzerland. We are on the road for three days to cover the 1’600km. For a long time we think about whether we should do a PCR test. This is mandatory for transit in France. We decide to drive through without testing. At the first tollbooth three policemen are waiting, fortunately they wave us through. At the Swiss border, no one cares either. Now some work is waiting for us to move forward with our new project: The shipment of “Whaly”. Where to, you will find out soon. First, we enjoy an evening at the place where it all began five months ago.