Northern territory

Darwin

After a long journey from Bohol to Darwin, we arrived tired in Australia. The journey itself is not that long, but with a diversion via Singapore it is very inconvenient. But we managed to get through a full day of waiting in Singapore without any problems. There is nothing lacking in entertainment at this airport – so the time passed quickly. We were overjoyed when we arrived in Darwin. Now we wanted to find a suitable car for our road trip as soon as possible. Thanks to plenty of research on the internet, we already knew what it should be: a 4×4 off-road vehicle that would take us to the remote places far away from the tourist spots. Our dream car was a Toyota Landcruiser Bushcamper, which offers not only four-wheel drive but also a bit more comfort thanks to the high roof. We had already discovered one on the internet and were glad that the seller was still in Darwin and the car was still available. A short enthusiastic test drive and it was clear to us: this is our new car.

Already the first night we could sleep in the car, we would not have dreamed of that so soon. After we had done all the paperwork the following day, Kay (the salesman) even gave us an off-road course. So the next day we went out into the outback and tried our hand at off-road driving. After some initial scepticism, we slowly got used to it and didn’t want to stop. We feel ready and the adventure can begin.

Litchfield Nationalpark

First stop with Speedy – that’s how we christened our car – was the Litchfield National Park, known for its countless beautiful waterfalls. Excited, we made our way to our first waterfall in Australia and were impressed. No matter which one, they all had something special. A few metres away from Florence Falls we found our first campsite (for 4×4 vehicles only).

It is wonderful to take a refreshing dip in the pools and look at the rock faces around you. The most impressive were the Wangi Falls. Unfortunately, we were not allowed to swim there due to the high water level after the rainy season, as salt water crocodiles could still live in it. So we decided to do a bushwalk from Florence Falls to Buley Rock Hole. A step-like waterfall with many pools for swimming and relaxing. Also impressive were the huge termite mounds, which were up to 7m high and spread everywhere. After two days we visited the small but beautiful park and moved on.

Douglas Hot Springs

Our route took us further towards Katherine. We made a two-day stopover at the Douglas Hot Springs. A wonderful mood to lie in the hot water for one or two hours in the morning after breakfast.

We also made a short detour to the Daily River, where Sandro could try his luck as an angler for the first time. Actually a famous barramundi square. But yes, fishing probably needs a bit more practice.

In Katherine we did the bulk shopping for the next two weeks, did some internet research and are now ready for the next outback trip.

Kakadu Nationalpark

In Katherine we visited the Visitor Centre and decided to travel on to Kakadu National Park. Due to the long rainy season in the north of Australia, many roads – especially the 4×4 roads – to various sights are unfortunately still closed. But that won’t change for a while, which is why we have no choice but to go to the Kakadu in the “low season”. We hope the 50AUD entrance fee will still be worth it.

The Kakadu is the largest and probably best known national park in Australia. A large part of it is Aboriginal land. The park is divided into seven regions, some of which we visited: South Alligator Region, Jabiru Region, East Alligator Region, Yellow Water Region, Nourlangie Region, Jim Jim Falls, Twin Falls Region and Mary River Region. Unfortunately, we could not visit the Jim Jim Falls and Twin Falls, probably the most famous waterfalls in Australia, because the roads were still flooded. However, we were also told that a visit is not worthwhile now that the dry season is beginning, as there is hardly any water flowing. So the best time to visit these waterfalls needs to be well planned. In the Yellow Water region, too, most of the walks and roads were still closed, so we quickly moved on again.

Mary River Region

With Gunlom Waterfall Creek we visited the first beautiful waterfall with a huge plunge pool to cool down. But after a 20-minute walk up to the plateau, the real highlight revealed itself here: Three small pools with waterfalls and a magnificent view over the Kakadu National Park. Gunlom Falls is a must-do in the Kakadu.

The next morning we had the pleasure of our first tyre change with Speedy – he woke up with a flat tyre on the wonderful campsite. That has to be learned first; a few hours later we had fixed the dilemma. We then took the Yurmikmik Walk up to the Motor Car Falls (approx. 8 km), enjoying beautiful scenery along the trail and a refreshing swim at the waterfall. Everything else in this region was unfortunately not yet open due to all the rain.

Nourlangie Region

Diese Region ist, zusammen mit Ubirr, sehr bekannt für die Wandmalereien und Zeichnungen der Aboriginal People. A 1.5 km circuit leads through the former shelter of the Aboriginal people during the rainy season at Nourlangie Rock. Under these large rocks they lived, hunted, discussed and painted countless wall drawings on the rock walls, which have been well preserved over the years and can still be admired.

The next day we were ready for trekking and set off for the Gubara Walk. This is supposed to lead to small pools in the middle of the rainforest. The highlight, however, was rather the beautiful landscape and the magnificent view.

East Alligator Region

Our most beautiful experience in this region is Ubirr. According to many, the Kakadu Nationalpark is a MUST – and it really is. Similar to Nourlangie, Ubirr is also an Aboriginal shelter with countless wall drawings. Here, however, they are even more special and diverse. The viewpoint at the top of the mountain is also beautiful. We have seen a few viewpoints this week, but this one has topped them all. Especially in the evening mood at sunset, a breathtaking sight.

All in all, a nice trip to the Kakadu – even though there would certainly be much more to come in the right season. It was a pity, much of it was still cut off due to the high rainfall. But that’s the way it is on a longer trip – you can’t catch the best season everywhere. Our highlights were certainly the Gunlom Falls and Ubirr.

Red Center Australia

Our next adventure was the marathon drive to the red centre. 1’300 km along the Stuart Highway through red desert landscape. On the way we visited the Devil Marbles – a great photo motif in good weather.

There is not much else to see along the way – so we drive through quickly, spend the night at the roadside and after two days we arrive in Alice Springs. We soon realised that it was much cooler. At night the temperature dropped to 3° Celsius, which we didn’t really expect. So the first thing we did was buy warm clothes so we wouldn’t freeze to death at night.

West MacDonnell Ranges

West of Alice Springs are the scenically spectacular West MacDonnel Ranges. We could spend a few days here and were thrilled. For the first night we looked for a nice campsite to celebrate Sandro’s 30th birthday. We also found this with the Ellery Creek Big Hole – in warmer months you have a refreshing pool here between the high red cliffs. With a good dinner – today we had kangaroo – we toasted to another beautiful day and enjoyed ourselves.

The next day we tested Speedy’s – or our – off-road abilities. The destination was a 4×4 campsite, where we were not so sure if there would ever be a campsite. Eventually, however, we made it and arrived at a beautiful, secluded spot for the night.

The West MacDonnell Ranges are great to explore on foot – we experienced some beautiful walks. Among others, a part of the famous Larapinta Trail, which leads a total of 233 km through the entire national park. Our highlight, however, was Ormiston Gorge. A beautiful gorge between red cliffs. A three-hour hike takes you across the prairie, to a beautiful vantage point and finally through the gorge back to the starting point. A little climbing and cold feet in the river are also part of it.

Palm Valley

Palm Valley is an off-road adventure that should only be tackled with high ground clearance. For us it was a good exercise, at some point we have to get used to it. Up to the campsite the route is not that difficult, some sandy passages and smaller river crossings await us. Where it got hefty was the 4 km from the campground to Palm Valley. However, it was a lot of fun to test Speedy and its limits.

Finally arrived, we explored the Valley on foot. First down through the gorge, then onto the high plateau with a great view over the gorge. Countless palm trees line the Finke River, which borders the high red walls and looks spectacular.

Kings Canyon

Via the Meerenie Loop Road, a 130km long corrugated iron road, we continued to Kings Canyon in Watarrka National Park, one of the other highlights of Central Australia.

Unfortunately, another tyre tube burst on the way. At a construction site, a truck driver stopped us and told us we had a flat tyre. At the slow speed on the corrugated iron track, we didn’t even notice it ourselves. So second attempt to change a tyre tube.

Once we arrived, we could marvel at the 270m high red walls that make the canyon so famous. The Kings Canyon Rim Walk takes you first up the cliffs – the strenuous part – a long way across the plateau to the two massive escarpments and a breathtaking panorama over the canyon. For us, Kings Canyon was one of the most beautiful adventures so far.

Ayers Rock

The next stretch took us towards Uluru. Out of nowhere, a tyre suddenly burst – this time, unfortunately, it wasn’t just an inner tube. Luckily we have a spare wheel with us. Another of our tyres didn’t look so fit either, making it difficult to continue without a spare one. In this area we are 500 km from the nearest village. Not necessarily the place to have a tyre defect. We had no choice but to get a new spare wheel in the middle of nowhere at exorbitant prices. Let’s hope the remaining tyres hold out until the next big city.

The next morning we got up early to view Ayers Rock in the light of sunrise. Even if you have seen hundreds of pictures of this famous, holy mountain – it is not the same as standing in front of it yourself.

Olgas; Kata Tjuta Nationalpark

The whole day we were on the road in the national park and could always catch a glimpse of Uluru. It is impressive how it changes colour with the sunlight – from brown in the afternoon to orange and finally red at sunset. Around Uluru we discover Aboriginal artworks & shelters, which are not all allowed to be photographed due to their sacredness.

No less spectacular than Ayers Rock are its neighbours, Kata Tjuta, the Olgas. Kata Tjuta means “many heads” – and that’s how they look with their countless rock formations. The largest of them, at 550m, is another 200m higher than Ayers Rock. Here, too, there is a beautiful 7 km walk that leads through the middle of the Olgas. The sometimes steep passages are definitely worth walking.

Rainbow Valley

Actually, the plan was to visit the East MacDonnell Ranges and Simpson Desert as well. However, due to the poor condition of our tyres, we had to let it go. The risk was too high for us to be towed away in the middle of the outback. So we drove back on the highway towards Alice Springs and made a detour to the Rainbow Valley. We found a cosy campsite with a direct view of the Valley walls, a spectacle especially at sunset.

The next day we made our way to Alice Springs, where we refilled our thirsty Speedy and, most importantly, had another shower. The red dust in the outback leaves its mark. The side trip to the centre of Australia was worthwhile – it makes you realise why Australia is called the “red continent”. With the dream weather and constantly bright blue skies, the scenery looks unique. The temperatures were ideal for walking. Some Australians have told us it’s the best winter they’ve had in 20 years here in the centre.